The Black Hills

Up early and the icicle outside is even bigger! Head out of town west and the wind is blowing from the north bouncing the tumbleweed across the road in front of us. We pass through Wessington Springs where they have a replica of Shakespeare’s Garden allegedly. On the open grass land a coyote lopes across the road, unfortunately I couldn’t get the camera out in time to get a picture. Later as we approach Lake Francis Case we see Whitetails and Longhorn cattle. Then we crossed into Mountain time and gained an hour somewhere around Hayes, maybe, its not marked on the road or the map. We climbed gradually and reach 2505 feet and the grass plains stretch out in every direction as far as you can see. We cross the Cheyenne River and climb again to 3084 feet at Enning and the car’s dash says it is 32 dec F i.e. freezing. As we come down towards Sturgis we pass Bear Butte the Indian spiritual home which soars 1400 feet above the plains.


On into Deadwood and on the off chance we enquire at the majestic Franklin Hotel if they have vacancies, they do, and even better the fall rates are only $39. We book in and then head out for a beer and supper at the legendary Saloon #10, just as well we had more than a couple of beers, once back in the room we find out why it was so cheap. First a smoke alarm in the next room refuses to stop and eventually a security guy had to let himself in to shut it off, and then a few hours later the ancient central heating started cracking and banging, then a pressure release value on the huge cast iron radiator blew its top and whistled like a steam train, we turned knobs and twisted controls but nothing worked and then for no reason it just stopped! A few gurgles and pinks later we managed to drop off to sleep again.

Deadwood is a gambling town and when we went down for breakfast they were already on the card tables playing black jack. We had eggs and bottomless coffee for 50 cents, and then headed off for Spearfish Canyon. We climbed again to 6245 feet past Bridal Falls as the Spearfish Creek tumbles and sparkles beside the road all the way to Cheyenne Crossing.

Then we turn back toward Lead and the Homestake Mine, a huge opencast gold mine that has eaten half the mountain and is working its way across the other half and the town.

Once back in Deadwood we visit Mount Moriah Cemetery, otherwise known as Boot Hill, where Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane (Martha Canary) are buried. After supper another disturbed night as the central heating played percussion on our radiator. Tomorrow we move to Keystone the gateway to Custer State Park…….